Twin Needle Tips: Master the Stretch Twin Needle 75/11

By Les Tissées – Curated Fashion Fabrics | Published: 2026-10-13

Category: How-to Guides

Learn how to use a stretch twin needle on knits without skipped stitches, tunneling, or popped hems. Step-by-step setup, tension checks, and troubleshooting.

Quick answer

Thread your machine with two spools, insert a stretch twin needle 75/11, and sew knits with a narrow zigzag or built-in stretch stitch so the bobbin thread zigzags between the two needle lines. This gives a flexible, professional hem that stretches without snapping. Test on a scrap of the same knit before you sew the garment.

Why a stretch twin needle behaves differently on knits

A stretch twin needle has two needles on one shank and a slightly rounded point designed for elastic materials. The bobbin thread zigzags between the two top threads, which lets the stitch stretch with the fabric instead of cracking. That is why twin needle sewing tips for knits focus on thread path, stitch choice, and tension rather than speed. If you use a universal needle on a highly elastic knit, you may get skipped stitches or holes; the stretch twin needle 75/11 is made for that job.

Threading and machine setup that prevents most problems

You need two top threads. Place one spool on the machine and a second spool on a vertical spool pin or in a bobbin wound with the same thread. Thread the left needle with the left spool and the right needle with the right spool, passing both threads through the same tension discs and take-up lever unless your manual says otherwise. Use a fresh 75/11 stretch twin needle and match it with a quality all-purpose polyester thread such as Gütermann Sew-All, which is strong, durable, and resistant to shrinking and stretching. Set your machine for a narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch, not a straight stitch, and lower the tension slightly if the fabric puckers.

Stitch length, width, and test swatches

Start with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 mm and a width that clears the needle plate hole. Too wide a zigzag can break the needle; too narrow can cause tunneling. Always sew a test swatch on the same knit, folded the same way as your hem, and stretch it gently. If the stitches pop, shorten the stitch or reduce the width. If the fabric tunnels between the needles, loosen the top tension or use a lightweight tear-away stabilizer.

Step-by-step twin needle setup

Wind a second bobbin and load two top threads: Wind a bobbin with the same thread as your main spool, then place it on a vertical spool pin or in a second spool holder. Thread the left needle from the left spool and the right needle from the right spool, keeping both threads in the same tension discs and take-up lever. Checkpoint: both threads should pull evenly when you tug them gently.
Insert the stretch twin needle 75/11: Loosen the needle screw, push the twin needle up as far as it will go, and tighten. Make sure the flat side of the shank faces the back and the needles are centered over the needle plate hole. Common mistake: forgetting to raise the needle clamp before tightening, which leaves one needle lower and causes skipped stitches.
Select a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag: Set your machine to a narrow zigzag or a built-in stretch stitch. A straight stitch will snap when the knit stretches. Start with width 2.0–3.0 mm and length 2.5–3.0 mm. Checkpoint: turn the handwheel toward you to confirm both needles clear the presser foot and plate.
Sew a test swatch on the same knit: Fold a scrap of your fabric as you will fold the hem. Sew a few inches, then stretch the swatch gently. If the stitches pop, shorten the length or reduce the width. If the fabric tunnels between the two needle lines, loosen the top tension slightly. Common mistake: skipping the test swatch and adjusting tension on the garment, which can leave permanent needle holes.
Sew the hem slowly and steadily: Guide the fabric without pulling. Let the feed dogs move the knit. Keep the raw edge under the presser foot so both needle lines stay parallel to the fold. Checkpoint: if you hear a thumping sound, stop and check that the needles are not hitting the plate.
Press, don't iron, the finished hem: Use a press cloth and light steam to set the stitches. Pressing helps the knit recover and blends the twin needle lines. Next step: repeat the same setup for neckbands and cuffs, using a slightly shorter stitch length.

Tools that make twin needle sewing easier

SCHMETZ | Stretch Twin Needle | 75/11 | 2.5mm: SCHMETZ | Stretch Twin Needle | 75/11 | 2.5mm: two stretch twin needles mounted on one shank create two rows of stitching simultaneously, for elastic materials and highly elastic knitwear. The 2.5mm gap suits most hems and necklines; the stretch point reduces skipped stitches on knits.
Gütermann | Sew-All Thread | 100m | #575 | Saddle Brown: Gütermann | Sew-All Thread | 100m | #575 | Saddle Brown: 100% polyester, strong, durable, resistant to shrinking and stretching, suitable for cotton, linen, silk, and synthetics, with excellent colorfastness. A polyester thread that stretches with knits and holds color through washing, so your twin needle hem lasts.