How to Sew with Ultra-Soft Faux Fur Fabric

By Les Tissées – Curated Fashion Fabrics | Published: 2026-10-27

Category: How-to Guides

Learn practical faux fur sewing techniques for ultra-soft fabrics, from cutting and pinning to finishing seams, with tips for dense, plush piles.

Quick Answer

To sew ultra-soft faux fur successfully, use a walking foot, avoid pinning through the pile, and trim the fur away from seam allowances after stitching.

Why Ultra-Soft Faux Fur Needs Special Handling

Ultra-soft faux fur, like the dense plush pile of a heavyweight knit-backed fabric, behaves differently from woven fabrics. The pile can shift, stretch, and shed, so standard sewing techniques often lead to puckered seams or visible gaps.

The key is to work with the pile direction, minimize handling, and use tools that prevent the fur from being caught in the machine. This approach keeps the plush surface looking smooth and professional.

Trade-Off: Weight and Stretch

A heavyweight faux fur (around 1139 gsm) offers luxurious drape and warmth, but it can be bulky at seams. The knit backing provides minimal mechanical stretch, which means you need to support the fabric well to avoid stretching it out of shape while sewing.

Consider using a walking foot to feed the layers evenly, and test your stitch length on scraps to find the setting that prevents the pile from being pulled into the seam.

Step-by-Step: Sewing Ultra-Soft Faux Fur

Prepare the fur: Lay the fur with the pile running downward (from top to bottom) so the fur lies flat when worn. Use a soft brush to remove loose hairs and align the pile. Mark the wrong side with chalk or a fabric pen. Always test the pile direction on a scrap before cutting.
Cut with a sharp blade: Use a rotary cutter or a sharp craft knife on a cutting mat. Cut only the backing, not the fur pile, to avoid trimming the fur and creating uneven edges. Do not use scissors for long cuts, as they can cut the pile and cause shedding. Cut from the wrong side to keep the pile intact.
Pin carefully: Use safety pins or binder clips instead of straight pins. Straight pins get lost in the dense pile and can distort the fabric. Place pins within the seam allowance, perpendicular to the seam line. If you must use straight pins, pin only in the seam allowance to avoid visible holes.
Stitch with a walking foot: Attach a walking foot to your machine to feed the knit backing evenly. Use a slightly longer stitch length (3-3.5 mm) and a new, sharp needle (size 90/14 or 100/16). Test on a scrap to adjust tension if needed. A walking foot prevents the fur from stretching or shifting during sewing.
Trim the seam allowance: After stitching, trim the seam allowance to about 1/4 inch (6 mm) to reduce bulk. Use small scissors to carefully trim the fur pile away from the seam, so it doesn't get caught in the stitching or create visible ridges. Trimming the pile from seams makes the fur lie flatter and look more natural.
Finish the seams: Use a zigzag stitch or an overlocker to finish the raw edges, as the knit backing can fray. If you don't have a serger, a narrow zigzag or a bias binding works well. Press seams with your fingers or a cool iron on the wrong side—never directly on the pile. Always test seam finishing on a scrap to ensure it doesn't distort the fur.

Product Spotlight

Ultra-soft Wide Faux Fur | Black | Canada Goose Deadstock: Ultra-soft Wide Faux Fur in Black from Canada Goose deadstock has a knit backing and dense, plush pile at 1139 gsm. The dense pile and knit backing mean you'll need a walking foot and careful seam trimming to keep the fur from shifting or bunching.
Ultra-soft Wide Faux Fur | Black | Canada Goose Deadstock