Sewing Corduroy: 9 Wale vs 14 Wale Tips
By Les Tissées – Curated Fashion Fabrics | Published: 2026-10-21
Category: How-to Guides
Learn how to sew corduroy fabric with confidence. Get step-by-step tips for 9 wale and 14 wale corduroy, including cutting, stitching, and pressing advice.
Quick answer
To sew corduroy successfully, match your needle and pressure to the wale width—use a sharper needle and lighter pressure for fine 14 wale, and a slightly heavier needle for chunky 9 wale. Always cut with the nap direction consistent and press on a velvet board or with a pressing cloth to avoid crushing the pile.
Why wale width matters for sewing
Corduroy is defined by its wales—the vertical ribs of piled yarn. A 9 wale fabric has thicker, more widely spaced ribs, giving a chunkier texture that works well for structured jackets and overalls. A 14 wale fabric has finer, denser ribs, creating a softer hand that drapes more easily for skirts or fitted pants. The wale count affects how the fabric feeds through your machine, how it presses, and how it behaves at seams.
Trade-off: nap direction vs. fabric waste
All corduroy has a nap—the pile lies in one direction. To keep the color uniform, cut all pattern pieces with the nap running the same way. This typically requires more fabric than a nap-less layout. For 9 wale corduroy, the nap is more pronounced, so the difference in shade between nap directions is very visible. For 14 wale, the nap is subtler but still matters. Plan to buy 10–15% extra yardage compared to a non-napped fabric.
Step-by-step corduroy sewing tips
- Choose the right needle and thread: For 9 wale corduroy, use a size 80/12 or 90/14 universal or sharp needle. For 14 wale corduroy, a size 70/10 or 80/12 works well. Use a polyester all-purpose thread. Common mistake: using a ballpoint needle can push the pile aside and cause skipped stitches.
- Cut with the nap in one direction: Lay your pattern pieces so the nap runs downward (from top to bottom) for a darker, richer color. Mark the nap direction on each piece before removing the pattern. Checkpoint: hold the fabric at different angles to see the nap direction before cutting.
- Test stitch on a scrap first: Sew a test seam on a double layer of your corduroy scrap. Adjust stitch length to 2.5–3 mm. For 9 wale, you may need to increase presser foot pressure slightly to prevent the fabric from shifting. Common mistake: too long a stitch can cause the pile to pull or pucker at the seam.
- Use a walking foot or Teflon foot: A walking foot feeds the top and bottom layers evenly, reducing shifting. A Teflon foot glides over the pile without grabbing. If you don't have either, place tissue paper under the presser foot and tear it away after stitching.
- Press carefully without crushing the pile: Use a pressing cloth or a velvet pressing board. Press on the wrong side with a medium-hot iron. Never glide the iron; lift and press to avoid flattening the ribs. Checkpoint: after pressing, run your fingers over the area to fluff the pile back up.
- Finish seams to reduce bulk: Use a French seam or serge the raw edges. For 9 wale corduroy, trim seam allowances to 1 cm before finishing to reduce bulk in the pile. Common mistake: leaving thick seam allowances can create visible ridges on the right side.
Corduroy fabrics at Les Tissées
- Corduroy | 9 Wale | Powder Blue: Corduroy | 9 Wale | Powder Blue — 100% Cotton, 9 wale, width 43", weight 307 gsm. The wider 9 wale ribs give a bold, textured look that holds shape well, making it ideal for fitted jackets or overalls where structure is desired.
Corduroy | 9 Wale | Powder Blue - Corduroy | 14 Wale | Grape: Corduroy | 14 Wale | Grape — 100% Cotton, 14 wale, width 45", weight 349 gsm. The finer 14 wale ribs create a softer drape and smoother surface, better suited for A-line skirts or pants that need to move with the body.
Corduroy | 14 Wale | Grape
