Cotton Fleece vs French Terry: Fabric Face-Off

Quick Answer

For a structured, breathable hoodie with a smooth exterior, choose french terry; for a softer, brushed interior that feels cozy against the skin, choose cotton fleece. Your choice depends on whether you prioritize stretch and drape or warmth and that classic sweatshirt feel.

Key Differences in Stretch and Drape

French terry typically has more stretch than cotton fleece. For example, the Bamboo & Cotton French Terry from Les Tissées offers 40% two-way stretch, while the 100% Cotton Fleece has only minimal natural knit stretch. This means french terry will move with the body and drape more fluidly, making it ideal for fitted or active garments. Cotton fleece, on the other hand, holds its shape better and gives a more relaxed, structured silhouette.

If you are sewing a garment that needs to accommodate movement—like a yoga hoodie or a lounge set—french terry's stretch is a clear advantage. For a classic, boxy sweatshirt that keeps its shape wash after wash, cotton fleece's minimal stretch is actually a benefit.

Comfort and Warmth: Brushed vs. Smooth

The most noticeable difference between these two knits is the inside surface. Cotton fleece has a brushed back that traps air and feels soft and warm against the skin—think of your favorite worn-in sweatshirt. French terry, by contrast, has a smooth surface with loops on the inside, which makes it more breathable and less insulating.

For cooler weather or for someone who runs cold, cotton fleece is the warmer choice. For transitional seasons or for active wear, french terry's breathability prevents overheating. If you are making a gift for a sensitive-skinned person, the brushed back of fleece is often more comfortable than the loops of french terry.

Weight and Hand Feel

Both fabrics in this comparison weigh 300 gsm (8.85 oz), so they are similar in weight and will feel substantial. However, the hand feel differs: french terry tends to feel smoother and more fluid, while cotton fleece has a soft exterior and a cozy brushed interior. The 100% cotton fleece has a matte finish, which gives it a more casual, sporty look.

Consider the drape you want. French terry's smooth face works well for pieces that need a bit of polish, like a cardigan or a zip-up. Cotton fleece's matte surface is perfect for classic pullover hoodies and sweatshirts with a relaxed vibe.

Trade-Offs at a Glance

• Stretch vs. Structure: Choose french terry (like the Bamboo & Cotton French Terry) if you want 40% two-way stretch for movement and drape. Choose cotton fleece if you prefer minimal stretch for a structured, shape-holding garment.
• Brushed vs. Smooth Interior: Pick cotton fleece for a brushed back that feels soft and warm against the skin. Pick french terry for a smooth, breathable interior that prevents overheating during activity. Consider the wearer's sensitivity to texture: brushed fleece is often more comfortable than french terry loops.
• Fabric Weight and Hand Feel: Both are 300 gsm, but french terry feels smoother and more fluid, while cotton fleece has a matte, cozy hand feel. Choose based on the garment's intended look: fleece for classic casual, french terry for a more polished drape.

Product Facts

• Bamboo & Cotton French Terry: 66% Bamboo Rayon, 27% Cotton, 7% Spandex; 300 gsm; 40% two-way stretch The bamboo blend adds softness and the spandex provides stretch, making this french terry ideal for fitted, active garments that need to move with the body.

  

• 100% Cotton Fleece Fabric | Sweatshirt Knit: 100% Cotton; 300 gsm; brushed back; matte finish; minimal natural knit stretch The brushed back traps warmth for a cozy feel, while the lack of stretch keeps the fabric sturdy—perfect for structured, classic sweatshirts.

  

Which Fabric Fits Your Project?

Best for

• Fitted hoodies, joggers, and activewear that need stretch and breathability (french terry)
• Classic pullover sweatshirts, loungewear, and cozy gifts where warmth and a soft brushed interior are key (cotton fleece)

Not for

• Projects that require a structured, non-stretch fabric (choose a woven or a stable knit instead)
• Ultra-warm winter outerwear—both are mid-weight knits, not insulated fabrics